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  • Butterfly Japanese Maple Tree for Sale

 
*images shown are of mature plants

Butterfly Japanese Maple Tree

Acer palmatum 'Butterfly'

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Growing Zones: 5-8
(hardy down to -10℉)



Growing Zones 5-8
You are in Growing Zone: 6

Mature Height:

6-12 ft.

Mature Width:

4-7 ft.

Sunlight:

Full-Partial

Spacing:

4-6 ft.

Growth Rate:

Slow

Drought Tolerance:

Moderate

You are in an area with ~1800 chill hours

Botanical Name:

Acer palmatum 'Butterfly'

Does Not Ship To:

AZ

The Butterfly Japanese Maple – Provides a Year-Round Show of Color

The ever-changing colors of the Butterfly Japanese Maple make this an interesting accent to your landscape and looks brilliant as a stand-alone ornamental.

This variety of the Japanese Maple changes colors with the seasons.
Starting with a pinkish tinge foliage in early spring, the grey-green leaves incorporate splashes of red with silvery white borders throughout the summer.

As fall approaches, the green leaves transition to a deep scarlet-magenta color to make for a spectacular autumnal show.

Even in winter, its miniature, reddish maple keys will nod and flow in the breeze adding a dynamic display in your garden.

Vase Shape fits Anywhere
The distinctive 3” leaves, with five lobes, open like the palm of a hand and will occasionally have a slight twist as they emerge.  The shrubby, upright stature of the Butterfly reaches only 6-12’ in height; so it’s a great fit for smaller spaces, even in pots on the patio.  In warmer climates, plant it under a taller tree where it will do well in filtered light.  Its color mix with groundcovers or low growing shrubs planted as companions make a great fit too!

The inconspicuous flowers are small, of a reddish-purple color, and are quite attractive close up, but not particularly showy from a distance. The papery, double winged seed pods, called samaras, ripen during September and October and flow in the breeze to add another dimension.

Low-Maintenance
If you’re conscious of site selection, soil preferences, and giving it a good home with plenty of room, the Butterfly Japanese Maple will be a delight, as it doesn’t require much maintenance. It will naturally grow to its characteristic shape with no pruning required.

This long lived specimen is naturally resistant to diseases and insects, so you’ll rarely need to treat it with fungicides or insecticides.  Just give it a good start, and it will reward you for years to come. 

Japanese Tree Adds Interest
Clearly showing off its native roots of Japan, Korea, and China, place this classy tree wherever you wish and it will be a point of year-round interest. Use it in containers, bonsai, Asian themes, or small gardens to display its unique beauty.





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Planting & Care



It's Easy to Plant & Care for Your Butterfly Japanese Maple Tree


Butterfly Japanese Maple Tree Planting Diretions

Location/Exposure

 

In northern areas, Japanese Maples can be grown in full sun to partial shade.  As you move south to warmer climates, provide a little more shade (particularly in the afternoon). When it is hot and dry, new leaf growth can become scorched, so avoid this type of exposure.

Soil Preferences

Prefers slightly acidic soil (5.5-6.5). If the pH is too high, leaves can become chlorotic (yellowing). Japanese Maples require a well drained medium, but one that can stay moist, so ensure plenty of organic matter. Sandy loams work well. Mulching is recommended to retain soil moisture, keep back competing weed growth and keep the roots cool. Peat Moss, Perlite, and barky mulch are good choices for ensuring air exchange while also holding moisture. Use only mature composts and avoid fresh animal manures as they will be higher in nitrate and ammonium nitrogen which is injurious to its fibrous roots.

Planting - General

Observe the container the tree came in for bound roots. Tip the pot and see if roots are growing through the drainage holes on the bottom, or bound against the walls of the container. The root system should not have large, woody roots circling the ball. Loosen the roots around the ball by gently combing with your hands before planting. If necessary, use a knife or shears to loosen.

 

Whether planting in containers or outdoors, allow room for the root flare to end up slightly above the finished soil level after planting and settling of the soil.

 

When mulching around the tree, do not apply more than 2” of mulch so as to not smother the surface roots; and keep mulch away from the trunk to avoid rot and fungus.

 

Water your tree every day while waiting to plant it into the garden or into a new container. Keeping the roots moist is very important at this time.

 

Always move the plant by the container or the ball, not the trunk.

Planting – Pots/Containers

Select a container that has several holes in the bottom for drainage. If your tree is being planted indoors and your container does not have drainage holes you'll need to make some yourself by drilling 4-6 holes in the bottom of the container. Size the container to facilitate the root area once you loosen them from the ball (or container) and give them enough space to establish.

 

Municipal water supplies, hard water, and water from arid regions tend to be higher in pH. Using an azalea-type (slightly acidic) potting soil mix is advised to offset the potential for your water source to raise the pH out of the desirable range in containers.

 

Planting -- Garden

The hole you dig should be twice the width of the root ball or container,  but no deeper. Dig to a depth so as to have firm, solid ground under the tree, but to allow the root flare to end up slightly above the finished soil surface.  Amend the soil you dig as recommended above. If the soil doesn’t retain moisture, you can add compost, peat, azalea-type potting soil, or mulch at a ratio of 1 part amendment to 3 parts of the soil you dug out.

 

If planting into overly clay soils, be more conscientious of the need for good drainage. Make the hole bigger, add some sand to the mix, small pebbles or stones, etc.

 

After the hole has been prepared, place the tree in the planting hole. If the tree arrives as a burlap ball feel the top of the root ball and be sure the root flare is slightly above ground while ensuring the firm footing below. As you fill the soil with your mix, water well as you go so as to remove air space.

Water thoroughly after planting.

 

It is best to stake larger trees to keep them from tipping or blowing over. Avoid pulling the plant by its top when planting as it may tear the roots (if in a burlap ball) or create too much air space if in soil.

 

Six months after establishment, you can cut away the wire, burlap (if applicable), and string from the top of the ball and trunk.

Watering

Be careful not to allow the tree to dry out.  During summer/dry weather, water deeply once or twice a week, slowly soaking the area around the plant to a depth of 4″. Do not overwater. If the soil is wet, do not add water.

 

Fertilization

Japanese Maple’s new root growth is very sensitive to salts that common fertilizers contain. They’re not heavy feeders, so if you manage and maintain your organic matter, they won’t need any additional fertilizer. If you do fertilize, use a slow release or organic-based source. 

 

If you want to fertilize mature maples because the soil may be depleted, do so in the spring before the leaves emerge, but never allow chemical fertilizers to come in contact with plant foliage or the young roots near the surface.

 

Japanese maples are very sensitive to nitrogen sources from ammonium nitrate.  Urea forms raise the pH which is not desirable either. Ammonium sulfate is probably best. Rose food, fish emulsion, and Miracid are good choices, and ratios of 1-2-1 or 1-2-2 would be advisable.

 

 

Weed Control

Weeds shouldn’t be a concern, especially if you keep a mulch layer around the tree.

Pests and Diseases

Japanese maples don’t have very many serious insect or disease problems especially if you follow the soil and watering recommendations above.  Aphids, scale, borers, and mites may present a problem, but Japanese maples can tolerate these fairly well. Foliage tends to leaf out early in spring and can be subject to damage from late spring frosts, so don’t confuse this with insect or disease problems.

Pruning, Propagation, and other recs

Japanese maples don’t require pruning and should be kept to a minimum. If pruning is necessary, late fall to midwinter is the best time as the tree will bleed excessively if trimmed in the spring or summer.

 

Root pruning in containers: When grown in a container, roots should be pruned in the early spring prior to the emergence of new leaves. This is also a good time to repot to larger containers if the roots are binding against the walls or through the drainage holes of the pot. Root pruning is not difficult and is necessary for the health of your potted tree. It is important to cut roots that are becoming large and woody. Root pruning is important to the overall health of older maples that have reached their optimum size and should be done every two to four years. After root pruning you may re-pot your maple in the same pot.

Planting & Care

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