Royal Empress Tree

The Royal Empress Tree (Paulownia elongata) is a FAST growing, decorative, shade producing tree. In addition to being beautiful, the Empress Tree is one of the most environmentally beneficial trees on Earth. It’s incredibly efficient at absorbing carbon dioxide (greenhouse gases) and releasing large amounts of oxygen into the air thanks to its large, fan-like leaves. After being established for a couple years, it will start to produce lovely purple-white flowers in the spring similar to orchids but much larger.

They do best when planted in USDA growing zones 7-11 and once situated in their new home, grow like bamboo in comparison to how tall they get at such a rapid pace. Empresses can mature to a height of 40-50 feet and a mature width of about 30-40 feet wide. Our Empress has been treated to ensure that it will be non-invasive and not tear up your landscaping but we do not recommend planting them next to foundations, sidewalks, septic/water/power or driveways. For a fast growing shade, oxygen producer or decorative blooming tree, the Royal Empress cannot be matched!

Selecting a location: Empress trees are nearly indestructible once they have become established but do require some care in their early stages of growth. Full sun is best for its exposure and well draining soil is existential to the health of the tree.

Planting Directions: Plant your tree after the last frost or when surrounding plants begin to bud out. For best results, mix in potting soil or soil conditioner, especially if planting in clay or poor soil.

1) Make your hole twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball.
2) Carefully remove the Empress tree from its container tapping on the sides to help free up any clinging roots or soil.
3) Place the tree in the hole and spread the roots out evenly. You’ll want to plant your tree so that the “root collar” is level with the ground (see Fig. 2) The “root collar” is the height where the roots effectively become the stem of the tree. It is commonly seen as a line that is lighter bark on top, darker roots on bottom. This is the line where the soil initially came to when your seedling was grown.
4) Keep the tree straight as you begin to backfill the hole, tamping down lightly as you fill to prevent any air pockets from forming in the soil.
5) Water the area to moisten/settle the soil and then broadcast a good layer of mulch to preserve soil moisture and keep weeds and grasses back.

Watering: DO NOT OVER WATER your Empress Tree. When the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil is dry, add water. Do not allow soil to stay soggy as Empress trees will not tolerate over watering in the slightest. As a rule, let the soil surrounding the tree dry out before watering. If your tree is wet upon arrival, skip the initial watering for two days. Drooping branches and shriveled, brown leaves are signs of both under and over watering. If under-watered, the leaves will become dry and brittle. If over-watered, the leaves will become yellow to black and begin to shrink. They will be soft, not brittle. If this happens, stop watering your tree until it revives. If too much damage has been done, it will grow a new trunk from the base and grow a new tree.

Fertilizer: Empress Trees love organic fertilizer high in nitrogen, in fact they LOVE it. You can use Miracle Gro or a balanced tree fertilizer. Just be sure the 1st of the three numbers on your organic fertilizer is higher than the others indicating an extra boost of nitrogen (Example: 20-10-10). You can fertilize twice a month in the growing season. Stop fertilizing before the tree goes back into dormancy. Additional fertilizing should only be done after the first year. Take care not to go overboard with fertilizing in the beginning of spring or you may inhibit the blooms from forming.

Spring Pruning: Let your tree grow for one entire year. If your empress tree did not grow at least 4 feet before winter dormancy, we recommend that you cut it to the ground at the very start of spring (a process called "coppicing"). This may seem odd, but it will grow a bunch of small sprouts. Select the “alpha” of the bunch and pinch the others off. This will focus all of the nutrients into that one growth and become a very straight, beautiful tree. Your tree(s) will more than make up for the lost growth in the first few weeks. We have seen some Empress Trees grow as many as 20 feet in the first year after being cut back to the ground. Don’t worry about being exact. This process (coppicing) can be done any time of year, though we recommend spring.

Branch Pruning: Large leaves grow in pairs up the tree (one on each side). Every few inches up the tree, you will see a new set. These should be left on the tree to maximize photosynthesis. These leaves will fall off later. Above each leaf on the tree’s stem, you will see a little bud growing. This is referred to as a “sucker.” It is a permanent branch trying to grow. Pinch these off until you get to the height where you want your first branches to grow. The higher you let your branches start, the higher your clearance will be under the branches (see Fig. 3)

Winter Dormancy: During late fall and winter, your tree will go dormant. The leaves will fall off and the stem will turn brown. Nothing will be happening above ground, but the roots will continue to grow below, especially during nice days. This winter root growth will help accelerate growth when spring comes.

Deer: The Royal Empress Tree is not a desired food for deer. However, if nothing more appetizing is available, they have been known to eat the growth bud at the top of the stem. If you think this may be a problem, you may want to consider caging your trees as this is the guaranteed answer to deer problems.

      figure 1                                         figure 2                                  figure 3

Fun Facts:
*Empress wood is the second most valuable wood grown in the US, behind only Cherry.
*Throughout the Orient, the Empress tree is planted at the birth of a daughter. When she marries, the tree is cut down and used to build a wedding chest and gifts.
*Ancient lore has it that the legendary Phoenix flew across the Orient and would only land on Empress Trees – bringing good fortune to the nearby household.
*Empress lumber is farmed on plantations rather than taken from old growth forests. It thrives on marginal or even toxic soil.
*Empress roots go down as far as 40 feet which helps to regulate the water table as well as remove soil salinity and ground pollutants. Empress trees are also used to clean toxic soil and absorb animal waste.
*Giant leaves drop each winter, releasing nitrogen and increasing soil fertility.
In the orient, Empress trees are planted between row crops and have improved yields by as much as 30%.
*Your cloned tree is non-invasive; its seeds are virtually sterile.
*Empress trees save forests by producing sawn timber in 7-12 years and growing 2-4 times more lumber than most other commercial trees in the same time period. This is vital as the supply of exotic and hardwood trees rapidly diminishes.
*After being harvested, a new Empress tree grows back from the stump and uses the same well-established root system. This saves post-harvest clearing costs, land erosion and runoff. The same stump can re-grow 7-10 full sized trees.
*The technology that created your Super Tree is the result of a major international research project that planted millions of Empress trees throughout China, India, and the Philippians.