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It’s time to spring forward! While we’re getting used to the time change, temperatures are starting to break, and plants are getting used to more afternoon light and warmer temperatures. Spring is literally around the corner, so it’s a good time to consider pruning your plants – especially when it comes to pruning Crape Myrtles.

Pruning Crape Myrtles: Why?

Crape Myrtle Trees are summer bloomers and only have blooms on their new growth. Once they break dormancy, this new growth will rapidly emerge. Therefore, it’s good to remove a few of the older branches to make way for the new growth.

Also, pruning Crape Myrtles in the late winter or early spring is good in order to keep them neatly shaped. However, most crapes naturally grow into beautiful forms.

If you wish to heavily prune your tree, you can cut it back by half. Most people do this when their trees get too large, especially when they’re planted under power lines, or extremely close to their homes. Crape Myrtles are extremely tough trees, and often survive heavy pruning, but we don’t recommend cutting them back past half their size.

Crape Myrtles

How Not to Prune

Before we discuss the benefits of pruning Crape Myrtles, we’re going to tell you how not to prune them!

1. Don’t prune your Crape Myrtle trees in the summer or fall. This could stress the trees out. The summer heat will be too hot and stressful for new growth.

2. Don’t dead head them! Although dead heading is common for a few different shrubs, you’ll hurt your chances for blooms by dead heading crapes. Small branches will grow from the stubbed trunks, and they might be too weak to support blooms.

3. Don’t use dirty or old pruners. Make sure that your tools are clean and sterile to make good clean cuts. If it takes a few tries to cut through a branch, and the cut is jagged, then it may get infected.

4. Don’t feel bad if you don’t prune your trees. It isn’t necessary to prune Crape Myrtles, even if it can improve bloom production. These tough trees will grow fine on their own.

Pruning Crape Myrtles

Pruning Must-Haves

1. Hand Pruners: A small pair of pruners generally used to prune small branches and shrubs with stems no larger than half an inch wide.

2. Loppers: A larger pair of pruners with long handles. These are used to prune branches that are about half an inch to 1.5 inches wide.

3. A pole saw: A small saw on a pole. They’re generally used to prune branches over 1 to 1.5 inches thick.

4. Chainsaw: In some cases, when people want to seriously prune Crape Myrtles, a chainsaw may be preferred in order to prune thick branches and trunks. We only recommend the use of chainsaws to trained professionals.


What to Prune

When you’re pruning Crape Myrtles in dormancy and want to know which branches to trim, look for any damaged or broken branches.

Also, remove any dead branches. This will prevent the trees from getting infected or spreading disease. To verify if branches are dead, gently rub the bark with a coin or your fingernail. If the flesh under the bark is a light color like green, yellow, or white, the branch is still alive and healthy. If the color under the bark is brown or black, the branch is dead and needs to be cut back.

Furthermore, look for any branches that are rubbing or crossing. It will be good to remove them before they break.

It’s best to remove a few branches from the center of the tree to allow more sunlight to hit lower branches and create better airflow. This sunlight will provide more blooms and growth, as well as dry out branches and prevent mold.

Ensure that you remove any branches that take away from the shape that you desire for your trees, like branches growing at odd angles.

Crape Myrtles

How to Prune

Before you begin pruning Crape Myrtles, study them and get a game plan for what you want to remove. You can always go back and prune more later, but you never want to overprune your tree or thin it out too much!

When pruning branches, make your cuts back to about a third of their size. Make the cuts at 45-degree angles, facing upwards, to promote new growth. If you don’t want a particular branch to grow back, cut it back to about an inch away from the trunk. Make the cut straight across the branch.

If you see new growth growing from the ground, around the trunks of your trees, remove these. Pull upwards on them in a twisting motion to remove these “suckers”, which generally steal nutrients from the rest of the tree.

The wooden pods that remain don’t need to be removed. They will naturally drop to make way for new blooms. However, to get faster blooms after each blooming cycle, you can remove them by picking them off by hand.