* Images shown are of mature plants
Tolerant in Hot and Cold Climates
The Carpathian Walnut Tree has so much to like:
- Hardy tree tolerant of heat and temperatures down to -10F
- Scores of huge, delicious walnuts you can enjoy right away or store for months
- Walnut husks naturally ward off pests and insects
- Tremendous tree with awe inspiring canopy
Carpathian Walnut: Impressive looks and Distinctive Walnut Flavor
With a stately look, the gorgeous autumn yellow leaves of the Carpathian Walnut will give your landscape the look of an English countryside. Its rounded crown spreads almost as wide as the tree is tall. Gaining a height of up to 60 feet, the Carpathian will draw the looks that a tree of this stature deserves.
Walnut Taste the Carpathian way
When it comes to walnut flavor, the Carpathian is king. An English-type walnut, the taste is full-flavored with a hint of butterscotch and sweetness that is unrivaled by any other variety. The thin husk encasing the fruit is easy to remove. A hearty tree, Carpathians are known to be strong producers that can tolerate harsh northern climates down to -10F.
Use Carpathians to enhance your homemade brownies or top salads with crushed walnuts from your very own tree. And though they must be planted in pairs or with another English Walnut for fruit, growing Carpathians couldn't be easier.
English Walnut Tree Pollination
English Walnut Trees are not self-fertile. You will need to plant another variety to achieve fruiting.
Planting & Care
The English Walnut tree (Juglans regia 'Carpathian') or “Carpathian walnut” is a fantastic nut producer that brings forth a full flavored, semi-sweet with a hint butterscotch to the taste. This full sun loving, moderately fast growing tree is cold hardy, drought tolerant and shows off a stunning array of color to the fall foliage. Commonly planted in USDA growing zones 5-9 it’s a favorite for cooler states as well as the southern areas for its shade giving properties. Be sure you take into account the tree’s mature height when scouting your planting area as these trees can grow to as tall/wide as 40-60 feet! The English walnut is semi-fertile so walnuts are not guaranteed, it’s best to plant them in pairs to ensure the highest yield.
Seasonal Information: Generally it is best to plant your tree in the early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost in order to give the roots enough time to become established before winter sets in, or in the early spring six weeks after the final frost. However, you can plant your tree at any time of the year as long as your ground isn’t frozen. If you plant during the summer, make sure that your tree(s) get enough water to balance the heat.
Location: When deciding where to plant your walnut trees remember that they will perform best in full sunlight. Although, they can tolerate partial shade as long as they have at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Avoid planting in an area of your yard that’s prone to flooding, or that collects standing water.
1) Once you have picked the perfect planting location dig a hole that’s just as deep as the root ball on your tree and three times as wide.
2) Take a pitch fork or shovel and scrape it along the sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Check for any debris like rocks, grass, or dirt clumps and remove them from the hole.
3) Next place your tree in the hole and make sure that it’s level with the surrounding ground and standing straight upwards at a 90 degree angle.
4) Slowly back fill the hole and gently tamp the soil down.
5) Once you’ve completed the planting process give your tree a long drink of water and mulch the area to conserve soil moisture.
Watering: We often find that plants are harmed more by over watering than under watering. Keep this in mind when it comes to watering your walnut tree. Allow the soil to dry out two inches below the surface before watering again. Hold a hose next to the base of the trunk and count to 30 order to give them a slow, deep watering.
Fertilization: Give your tree a boost with a well balanced fertilizer like formula 10-10-10 twice a year, once in the early spring and again in the early fall. If your soil is lacking in nutrients you can fertilize up to once a month during the growing season. Wait until your tree has experienced one year of growth before fertilizing.
Weed Control: Prevent weeds from growing under the canopy by spreading 3 to 4 inch thick layer of mulch around the base. The mulch won’t allow weeds to grow, and it will also help your soil retain moisture.
Pruning: Early spring is the best time of year to prune your walnut trees. You’ll want to remove any broken, damaged, or diseased branches. Also, remove any crisscrossing or rubbing branches. Make sure that your tree has sunlight and air flow through the canopy, this will allow the air and sunlight to knock out molds and fungi.
Be sure to look at your tree and plan where to make your cuts. Just like with a haircut, you can always remove more hair later, but if you cut too much it may take a while to grow back. Use a sharp and sterile pair of hand pruners or loppers and make your cuts at 45 degree angles facing upwards in order to promote new growth. You can sterilize your cutting tool(s) with a household rubbing alcohol.
Estimated Shipping Time: Most orders ship immediately. As noted on the website, some items are seasonal, and may only ship in spring or fall. Once your order is shipped, you'll receive an email with a tracking number.
|Amount of Order||Shipping Charge|
|Less than $149||$19.95|
|$149 +||FREE SHIPPING!|
|Mature Height:||40-60 ft.|
|Mature Width:||40-60 ft.|
|Harvest Time:||September - October|
|Botanical Name:||Juglans regia 'Carpathian'|
|Does Not Ship To:||AZ, CA, TX, OR|
|Grows Well In Zones:||5-9 outdoors|
|Your Growing Zone:||#|
Growing Zones: 5-9 outdoors(hardy down to -20℉)
Customer Reviews & Photos
- Walnut Tree
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- root ball
Really tall, nice trees
Really tall, nice trees
Very healthy looking, just beautiful trees.
beautiful tree. Looking forward to it to grow bit
I hope it grows big
Two English Walnut trees
Mostly great. But I have a couple questions and or reservations. Firstly, yesterday, on St. Patrick's day I turned 80. In addition, I am a very experienced gardener and landscaper, having grown up in Manhattan, Kansas with all-of-Nature loving parents and relatives, who encouraged that similar love in me so that I began planting trees even when I was still attending grade school, for instance, on Bluemont Hill near where we lived, they purchased a wilderness prarie hill-top where I planted, and carried buckets of water to keep alive various maple, oak, and Black walnut seedlings and three-to-five year old trees. (I will never forget carrying those buckets of water to keep those trees thriving during some hot summer days!). While in Middle and High School I asked for, and received three or four batches of two or three hundred bare-root Black Walnuts from the Forestry Department at Kansas State University and, of course, inducted friends into joining me in planting them in the ravines of the nearby Flint hills that run from East Central Nebraska all the way down to East Central Oklahoma. Many of those trees are still thriving even though I never watered them after carefully planting them So, to address my major question/concern:. I have also transplanted both English and Black Walnuts and, as always, know that the tsp root of virtually ALL walnut trees, if allowed to grow naturally, have tap roots that are often twice the diameter of the trunk above ground. Well when I opened the two English Walnut trees from you folks, I was surprised--shocked, even though I might have suspected it--that by my calculations about 60-80 percent of those two tap roots had been pruned from the tree I received. I know how important those tap roots are in guaranteeing the most productive possible tree over the next 200-500 years. So a question: will the wonderfully vigorous-appearing two English Walnut trees redevelop a tap roots as it's other very much less developed secondary roots grow? And, if they do not developed tap roots, what are the long-term effects of that failure? Another thought: the spparent yearlings on top of the remains of the tsp roots are VERY, VERY impressive, very healthy looking. FYI. I still fig holes 24 to 30 inches deep and wide, supplement the already rich soil with peat moss and cured manure to reach a ratio of about 1:1:1, soil:peat: manure, so, as for the last 70 years of planting and nurturing ALL my plantings, I expect very healthy, vigorous growth for decades to come, certainly for long after my own death. ps Whether I can recommend these trees depends on their growth, whether they develop tsp roots, and (to some degree) on how your most experienced arborists respond to my questions and concerns. Thanks in advance. Respectfully yours, Patrick L. Finney, PhD, USDA, ARS Research Scientist, retired
Thank you for the review! Our plant specialist is going to reach out privately to answer your questions!
Healthy specimen, very well packaged, speedy delivery.