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Ice Cream Mango Tree for Sale  un-ripened mangoes
*images shown are of mature plants



NON-GMO

Ice Cream Mango Tree

Have your Dessert and Eat it, Too!



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Here’s why everyone loves Ice Cream:

  • Attractive tree with canary yellow colored mangoes
  • Great “condo tree”, grows well in containers
  • Fiberless fruit gives it a creamy texture
  • Incredible flavor tastes like mango sorbet

A Feast for the Eyes as well as the Pallet

Admired by enthusiasts for its flavorful fruit, the Ice Cream Mango tree has incredible eye appeal as well.  Filled with an abundance of glossy, green leaves, the Ice Cream’s lush canopy is a sight to behold.  Before long, velvety-looking, green mangoes appear with a blush of purple that adding even more color to your tree.  As the fruit ripens-- particularly in warmer climates--the mangoes turn a canary yellow that heightens the overall visual appeal of this tropical beauty.  Aptly nicknamed “the condo mango”, the tree stretches to a manageable height of just 6 feet, making it easy to manage and well suited for a diversity of planting locations.
 
Ice Cream Flavored Mangoes Right at your Doorstep

You’ve probably enjoyed mango flavored ice cream in the past, but now you can grow ice cream flavored mangoes. That’s because the fiberless texture of the fruit is so rich and creamy, it tastes more like ice cream than it does fruit!  As the mango’s skin matures to a yellow color, the fruit is ripe for the taking.  Sweet, delicious and full of flavor reminiscent of mango sorbet, the ice cream mango is perfect for accompanying your favorite dessert or eaten fresh right from the tree.  

The fruit can be grown practically anywhere in a container so long as you bring the tree indoors when temperatures dip below 40 degrees.

Order your Ice Cream Mango Tree today and give the whole family a treat they’re sure to love.



Growing Zones:
4-11 patio / 9-11 outdoors

Mature Height: 5-10 ft.
Mature Width: 4-8 ft.
Sunlight: Full - Partial
Soil Conditions: Adaptable
Drought Tolerance: Good
Botanical Name: Mangifera indica 'Ice Cream'
Does not ship to: AZ
Growing Zones 9-11 outdoors
This plant is recommended for zones:

4-11 patio
  /  
9-11 outdoors





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It's Easy to Plant your Ice Cream Mango Tree

Specific Directions for Ice Cream Mango Tree

Easy Care Mango Instructions
 

Growing Your Mango in a Container:

When You Receive your Mango –
Your Mango will arrive in a 3-gallon pot, ready to be potted up to a larger size for the first growing season. After repotting, you will need to acclimate your plant to being outside all day. Place it in a shady spot with for the first couple of days, then gradually give it more sun each day until after a week, you move it to its permanent spot in full sun for the summer. When picking that permanent spot, keep in mind that they love heat and sun!

Transplanting to a Larger Pot
As your tree grows, it will need to be moved to a large pot every 2 or 3 years, until it maxes out to around a 30-gallon pot. Your tree comes in a 3-gallon/10” pot, and you can step it up gradually as follows:
3 gallon/ 10” pot
7 gallon/ 14” pot
15 gallon/ 17” pot
25 gallon/ 24” pot
Etcetera

Re-potting Your Mango

  1. You will need a good, fast-draining gritty soil mix. You can make your own, using equal parts Pine Bark Fines, Turface and granite grit (or perlite). You can also use a commercially prepared mix like Jungle Growth or Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil. You can add a small amount of slow-release fertilizer to the mix.
  2. Many recommend using a clay pot because it breathes better than plastic, but you may also use a plastic pot, if it has plenty of holes in the bottom for drainage. Use one a size larger than your current pot size, as shown above.
  3. You might want to place the pot on castors before you fill it, to make moving it easier.
  4. Line the bottom with loose stones, and make sure there are several drainage holes. Add potting mix to half-way full, wetting it as you go.
  5. Remove the plant carefully from the pot, keeping the root ball intact. Do not pull it out by the trunk, as this may damage the tap root. If roots are starting to circle around the outside where they met the pot, gently loosen the ends to encourage them to grow out into the new soil.
  6. Hold the plant in the middle of the pot (or get a friend to help!) and fill in around it with potting mix so the top of the soil around the base of the tree is still visible. Burying the tree too deeply can cause the trunk to rot.
  7. Gently firm the soil and water until water drains out the bottom of the pot. I f you wish, you can apply a couple of inches of organic mulch to the top of the soil, though it should be several inches from the trunk, not touching it.
  8. After 6 weeks, begin fertilizing as shown below.  You can use a slow release fertilizer (18-6-8 or similar analysis) available at your local garden center, or an organic fertilizer if you prefer.

Watering Your Container
A general rule of thumb is the smaller the pot, the more frequently it will need watering. Also, you will need to take any rainfall into consideration in your watering schedule. That being said, you should water your pot every 2 or 3 days in the summer, and cut back to once every week or two in the winter. The goal is to keep the potting mix moist, but not wet, and to let the top couple of inches dry out before watering again. Your container should have several drainage holes and when you re-pot, you can place pebbles or shards in the bottom of the pot to help give good drainage.

Feeding Your Potted Mango
A plant growing in a container does not have access to nutrients in the ground, so you will need to feed it keep it nourished. There are a lot of differing opinions about the best way to feed your Mango, but it is generally accepted that nitrogen should be given sparingly if at all, as it will impede fruit production in favor of foliage; however, if you need to encourage flowering, you can apply a small dose of a rapid-release fertilizer just before flowering.

For the rest of the year, If you use a commercial fertilizer, use one with low nitrogen, such as a slow release 18-6-8; you can apply it in a slow-release form in spring and midsummer. Many recommend using an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion, and applying a mulch to the soil surface, but not touching the trunk itself.

Feed only when the tree is in active growth, and leave off in the winter. In the summer while the tree is active, you can also apply a foliar spray with micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese; chelated Iron might be needed, also. This may sound like a lot of trouble, but when you are eating those luscious Mangoes, you will be glad you took the time to grow your tree correctly!

Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!
Your tree has already had a several prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!

  1. A major key to pruning a Mango is tip pruning the new shoots when they reach about 20 inches. You should do this several times the first growing season you have it, and 2 to 3 times during the next couple of growing seasons. After that, you will need to tip prune every year after fruiting in midsummer. You don’t have to be selective, but simply cut off the growing tips of all the branches. Branches in the center of the tree that are growing upright should be cut back farther than branches growing horizontally on the sides of the tree. After 4-5 years, the tree should be about 6-8 feet tall and wide in a pot, and the goal is to keep it that way for its lifetime.
  2. When the tree is 5 years old, you should start removing altogether the thick, woody branches growing upright in the middle of the tree; a small hand saw should suffice. Hold the branch upright until the cut is complete so the end is not splintered and torn. Leave the smaller branches in the tree center; the goal is not to make a vase-shaped tree, but to open up the center of the tree to air and sun, as well as to remove thick, woody growth that saps energy from the smaller fruit-producing branches.
  3. Prune annually after harvesting in midsummer.

Bringing Your Mango Indoors for the Winter
Mangoes are not hardy, and can be damaged when temperatures go below 40⁰ Fahrenheit. In fall, when night temperatures get in the 40’s, go ahead and bring in your plant. You need a sunny place to put it – the more light the better – so a south-facing bank of windows would be good, or if you have a heated greenhouse, that would be even better. Cut back watering to once every week or two, and stop fertilizing. Moving your pot is easier if you have a dolly or if your pot sits on a platform with castors. It will make the change easier on your plant if you continue to put it outside in the middle of the day for several days until leaving it permanently inside for the winter, though this may not be practical once your plant gets large.

Pollination on an Indoor Plant
Though your Mango is self-pollinating, pollen is usually transferred by insects of the wind; your Mango will flower in March and April, probably before you can bring it outside. To help make sure there are plenty of fruits, you can try shaking the tree to disperse pollen or use a paint brush to gently transfer pollen from one flower to another.

Growing Your Mango in the Ground

Where to Plant
Mangoes like a lot of sun and a lot of heat, so bear this in mind when selecting a spot. Think what would be the warmest part of your yard during the winter months and that will probably be the best suited location for your Mango tree; this is often on the south or east side of your house.
Mangoes also require good drainage.

You will need at least 8 to 10 feet of space to accommodate your tree’s width. Its roots are not prone to damage pavement or pipes outside its drip line, so you can plant 8 to 10 feet from pavement or a pipeline, or 12 feet from a structure.

Soil
The Mango is not particular as to soil type, providing it has good drainage. If soil is too rich and too well fertilized, the tree will grow quickly, but be reluctant to flower and fruit. It likes loose, sandy soil and performs well in sand, gravel and even oolitic limestone. If you have heavy, wet clay soil, you will need to amend it substantially with substances like decomposed leaves, grit, and fine bark and sand. If you have a high water table, or wet soil, you may want to create a raised bed for your Mango.

Planting

  1. Make your hole 2 to 3 times as wide and twice as deep as the container. Amend your soil if needed. Fill in the bottom of your hole with the removed soil so when you place the container on it, the top of the container is at ground level; planting too deep can rot the trunk, so the top of the soil around the base of the tree in the pot should still be visible after planting in the ground. Do not add fertilizer to your soil.
  2. Remove the plant gently from the container, keeping the root ball intact. You may cut the sides of the nursery pot to make removing the plant easier, if needed. If the roots are starting to grow around the edges of the pot, gently loosen them so they will be more inclined to grow out into the new soil. However, take care not to damage the tap root.
  3. Hold the plant in place and back fill your hole around it. Be sure the top of the soil around the base of the tree is still visible when you’re done. Use any extra soil to make a small 3-4” berm in a circle 2 feet from the tree trunk, which will help hold water near the roots for the first few waterings.
  4. Gently firm the soil and mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic material to buffer soil temperature, conserve moisture and reduce weed competition. Water in your plant.
  5. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the base of the tree to a distance of 3 feet. Leave at least 6 inches from the trunk with no mulch touching the tree. Organic mulch will supply nitrogen as it decomposes, suppresses weeds, retains moisture and helps prevent damage from string trimmers.

Watering
The first 10 days after planting, water every other day, then gradually reduce frequency so that after 6 weeks you are watering twice a week in the summer while the plant is in active growth. Simply fill your ring (see #3 under Planting, above) with water and let it soak in. The ring will disappear by the end of summer. If you have rain, of course, you can reduce your watering. In the winter, your Mango will need very little watering: once every couple of weeks should suffice, unless you have enough rain to fill the tree’s needs.
           
The Mango needs consistently moist (but not wet) soil if it is to produce high-quality fruit, so it should receive water regularly during spring and early summer, whether from rain or from your hose. Once the tree is established (2 years after planting), a weekly soaking should be plenty during the growing season, whether from rain or from your hose. You probably will not need to water in winter unless there is a prolonged drought.

Feeding Your Mango
Your Mango will benefit form a regular fertilizer schedule, but it does not need to be fed in great amounts. In fact, over-fertilization is worse than under-fertilization! Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, liquid seaweed or compost are often recommended, as the tree is subject to fertilizer burn, especially when young. Micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese and chelated Iron are important for a healthy Mango, so if your soil is sandy or lacking in these, you may use a foliar spray to supply these nutrients.

  1. 6 weeks after planting you may apply fertilizer, either an organic one or a low dose of a slow release, low analysis fertilizer that contains low levels of nutrients, though some recommend staying away from chemical fertilizers until a couple of years after the tree is planted out. Apply at the drip line and irrigate immediately.
  2. In subsequent years, apply either an organic fertilizer or a slow-release, low level  formula chemical fertilizer (such as 6-6-6 or 8-3-9-2, with the 2 indicating magnesium) in spring just before flowering and in summer after harvest. Apply at the drip line and irrigate immediately. Additionally, apply a foliar spray of micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese as well as chelated iron in early summer and again in late summer.
  3. Do not fertilize after during the fall and winter.

Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!
Your tree has already had a couple of prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!

  1.  A major key to pruning a Mango is tip pruning the new shoots when they reach about 20 inches. You should do this every year after fruiting in midsummer, and more often for the first couple of years. You don’t have to be selective, but simply cut off the growing tips of all the branches. Branches in the center of the tree that are growing upright should be cut back farther than branches growing horizontally on the sides of the tree. After 4-5 years, the tree should be about 10 feet tall and wide in the ground, and the goal is to keep it that way for its lifetime.
  2. When the tree is 5 years old, you should start removing altogether the thick, woody branches growing upright in the middle of the tree; a small hand saw should suffice. Hold the branch upright until the cut is complete so the end is not splintered and torn. Leave the smaller branches in the tree center; the goal is not to make a vase-shaped tree, but to open up the center of the tree to air and sun, as well as to remove thick, woody growth that saps energy from the smaller fruit-producing branches.
  3. After the first year or two, prune annually after harvesting in midsummer.

Step 1 - Dig Your Hole

Select a site with full to partial sun and moist or well drained soil for your Ice Cream Mango Tree.

First, dig each hole so that it is just shallower than the root ball and at least twice the width.

Then loosen the soil in the planting hole so the roots can easily break through.

Use your shovel or try dragging the points of a pitch fork along the sides and bottom of the hole.



Step 2 - Place Your Plant

Next, separate the roots of your Ice Cream Mango Tree gently with your fingers and position them downward in the hole.

The top of the root flare, where the roots end and the trunk begins, should be about an inch above the surrounding soil.

Then make sure the plant is exactly vertical in the hole.

To make it just right, use a level.

Step 3 - Backfill Your Hole

As you backfill the hole, apply water to remove air pockets.

Remove debris like stones and grass and completely break up any dirt clumps.

Water your Ice Cream Mango Tree again after the transplant is complete.

To help retain some of that moisture, it's recommended that you place mulch around each plant to a depth of 2"-3" up to but not touching the trunk. Organic mulches such as wood chips also help to better soil structure as they decompose.

4.7 / 5.0
3 Reviews
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Hardiness
Tender
 
Hardy
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
2
1
0
0
0
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Hardiness
Tender
 
Hardy
Very Hardy tree for zone 7
This was one of my favorite trees purchased from here this summer. It is now in its flowering stage. I plan on getting two more of these by spring.
Was this review helpful? Yes (6) No (0) · Flag as Inappropriate
November 22, 2014
newark, NJ, US
Purchased
1 year ago
Growing Zone:
7
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Hardiness
Tender
 
Hardy
Nice Tree
This tree came shipped at very nearly it's full size and in excellent shape. It transplanted well. I must make a warning, however, due to it's leaves primarily being only at the top of the tree, this does make it susceptible to wind and I didn't have proper stakes planted early. Now I have a tripod around it and it is doing quite well.
Was this review helpful? Yes (7) No (2) · Flag as Inappropriate
November 20, 2014
Tampa, FL, US
Purchased
1 year ago
Growing Zone:
9
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Hardiness
Tender
 
Hardy
Too good
Bought this from FGT, it was mature tree about 6 feet tall, well pruned, even when I bought it. Planted it with the planting mix and transplant fertilizer. The tree took about a good one moth to establish itself and give rise to new leaves. In about another month, to our pleasant surprise we had tons and tons of flowers. Can't wait for it to become fruits, super excited.
A great buy for us and worked out too good.
Was this review helpful? Yes (6) No (2) · Flag as Inappropriate
November 3, 2014
Browse 8 questions and 1 answer
Hide answersShow all answers | Sort by
Can I plant this in an pot indoors with full light?
Julie on Feb 15, 2015
When is the fruit ripe to harvest?
Juanita T on Feb 4, 2015
What kind of soil do u use ?
A shopper on Aug 15, 2014
Best Answer: Ice Cream Mango Trees enjoy well balanced organic potting mix
Reply · Report · Allison BStaff on Aug 22, 2014
how large do the mangos get?
phil l on Nov 23, 2014
I live in zone 8B should I plant the mango tree in the container in the ground and also how big of the container should it be?

Thanks
Krittika J on Jan 22, 2015
how many years before I can see a blossom appear on this tree?
syl p on Apr 21, 2015
· Add Answer · I Have This Question Too (9)
Will you be getting more?
Araceli d on May 17, 2015
· Add Answer · I Have This Question Too (0)
can they grow here in las vegas?
Norma A on Apr 18, 2015
· Add Answer · I Have This Question Too (0)

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Will my Trees Look Like the Photographs?


Most trees and plants on the website are pictured in their mature form. Depending on the product and growth rate, mature development can take years for your plant to resemble the photos.

Picture the last time you took a walk in the woods. The young trees were not miniature bonsai versions of mature trees. Instead they were naturally thin and lanky. Young trees are programmed to race toward the light, before the competing vegetation crowds them out. Once established at 10 feet or more, they start developing a wide canopy and shedding lower limbs.





Most Fruiting Plants are Pruned Before Shipping... at No Cost to You


Tree before pruning Tree after pruning Rose before pruning Rose after pruning
Maple Tree before pruning Maple Tree after pruning 3 gallon Knockout Rose before pruning 3 gallon Knockout Rose after pruning

Pruning makes plants appear to be less-full than the ones you may have seen at your local big box garden center. A retailer's goal is to have plants look their best while sitting in the store. Our goal is to have them look the best after you plant them.

Pruned trees and shrubs not only travel better, but become established much quicker. So rather than supporting extra foliage, they put their energy into sending out deep roots. Once that happens, your plants become hardier and quickly explode with new top growth. Above the ground, pruning helps your plants develop a more attractive form.


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