This plant is recommended for zones:
You are in Growing Zone: 6
Mangifera indica 'Ice Cream'
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Here's why everyone loves Ice Cream:
A Feast for the Eyes as well as the Pallet
Admired by enthusiasts for its flavorful fruit, the Ice Cream Mango tree has incredible eye appeal as well. Filled with an abundance of glossy, green leaves, the Ice Cream's lush canopy is a sight to behold. Before long, velvety-looking, green mangoes appear with a blush of purple that adding even more color to your tree. As the fruit ripens-- particularly in warmer climates--the mangoes turn a canary yellow that heightens the overall visual appeal of this tropical beauty. Aptly nicknamed 'the condo mango', the tree stretches to a manageable height of just 6 feet, making it easy to manage and well suited for a diversity of planting locations.
Ice Cream Flavored Mangoes Right at your Doorstep
You've probably enjoyed mango flavored ice cream in the past, but now you can grow ice cream flavored mangoes. That's because the fiberless texture of the fruit is so rich and creamy, it tastes more like ice cream than it does fruit! As the mango's skin matures to a yellow color, the fruit is ripe for the taking. Sweet, delicious and full of flavor reminiscent of mango sorbet, the ice cream mango is perfect for accompanying your favorite dessert or eaten fresh right from the tree.
The fruit can be grown practically anywhere in a container so long as you bring the tree indoors when temperatures dip below 40 degrees.
Order your Ice Cream Mango Tree today and give the whole family a treat they're sure to love.
Easy Care Mango Instructions
Growing Your Mango in a Container:
When You Receive your Mango –
Your Mango will arrive in a 3-gallon pot, ready to be potted up to a larger size for the first growing season. After repotting, you will need to acclimate your plant to being outside all day. Place it in a shady spot with for the first couple of days, then gradually give it more sun each day until after a week, you move it to its permanent spot in full sun for the summer. When picking that permanent spot, keep in mind that they love heat and sun!
Transplanting to a Larger Pot
As your tree grows, it will need to be moved to a large pot every 2 or 3 years, until it maxes out to around a 30-gallon pot. Your tree comes in a 3-gallon/10” pot, and you can step it up gradually as follows:
3 gallon/ 10” pot
7 gallon/ 14” pot
15 gallon/ 17” pot
25 gallon/ 24” pot
Re-potting Your Mango
Watering Your Container
A general rule of thumb is the smaller the pot, the more frequently it will need watering. Also, you will need to take any rainfall into consideration in your watering schedule. That being said, you should water your pot every 2 or 3 days in the summer, and cut back to once every week or two in the winter. The goal is to keep the potting mix moist, but not wet, and to let the top couple of inches dry out before watering again. Your container should have several drainage holes and when you re-pot, you can place pebbles or shards in the bottom of the pot to help give good drainage.
Feeding Your Potted Mango
A plant growing in a container does not have access to nutrients in the ground, so you will need to feed it keep it nourished. There are a lot of differing opinions about the best way to feed your Mango, but it is generally accepted that nitrogen should be given sparingly if at all, as it will impede fruit production in favor of foliage; however, if you need to encourage flowering, you can apply a small dose of a rapid-release fertilizer just before flowering.
For the rest of the year, If you use a commercial fertilizer, use one with low nitrogen, such as a slow release 18-6-8; you can apply it in a slow-release form in spring and midsummer. Many recommend using an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion, and applying a mulch to the soil surface, but not touching the trunk itself.
Feed only when the tree is in active growth, and leave off in the winter. In the summer while the tree is active, you can also apply a foliar spray with micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese; chelated Iron might be needed, also. This may sound like a lot of trouble, but when you are eating those luscious Mangoes, you will be glad you took the time to grow your tree correctly!
Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!
Your tree has already had a several prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!
Bringing Your Mango Indoors for the Winter
Mangoes are not hardy, and can be damaged when temperatures go below 40⁰ Fahrenheit. In fall, when night temperatures get in the 40’s, go ahead and bring in your plant. You need a sunny place to put it – the more light the better – so a south-facing bank of windows would be good, or if you have a heated greenhouse, that would be even better. Cut back watering to once every week or two, and stop fertilizing. Moving your pot is easier if you have a dolly or if your pot sits on a platform with castors. It will make the change easier on your plant if you continue to put it outside in the middle of the day for several days until leaving it permanently inside for the winter, though this may not be practical once your plant gets large.
Pollination on an Indoor Plant
Though your Mango is self-pollinating, pollen is usually transferred by insects of the wind; your Mango will flower in March and April, probably before you can bring it outside. To help make sure there are plenty of fruits, you can try shaking the tree to disperse pollen or use a paint brush to gently transfer pollen from one flower to another.
Growing Your Mango in the Ground
Where to Plant
Mangoes like a lot of sun and a lot of heat, so bear this in mind when selecting a spot. Think what would be the warmest part of your yard during the winter months and that will probably be the best suited location for your Mango tree; this is often on the south or east side of your house.
Mangoes also require good drainage.
You will need at least 8 to 10 feet of space to accommodate your tree’s width. Its roots are not prone to damage pavement or pipes outside its drip line, so you can plant 8 to 10 feet from pavement or a pipeline, or 12 feet from a structure.
The Mango is not particular as to soil type, providing it has good drainage. If soil is too rich and too well fertilized, the tree will grow quickly, but be reluctant to flower and fruit. It likes loose, sandy soil and performs well in sand, gravel and even oolitic limestone. If you have heavy, wet clay soil, you will need to amend it substantially with substances like decomposed leaves, grit, and fine bark and sand. If you have a high water table, or wet soil, you may want to create a raised bed for your Mango.
The first 10 days after planting, water every other day, then gradually reduce frequency so that after 6 weeks you are watering twice a week in the summer while the plant is in active growth. Simply fill your ring (see #3 under Planting, above) with water and let it soak in. The ring will disappear by the end of summer. If you have rain, of course, you can reduce your watering. In the winter, your Mango will need very little watering: once every couple of weeks should suffice, unless you have enough rain to fill the tree’s needs.
The Mango needs consistently moist (but not wet) soil if it is to produce high-quality fruit, so it should receive water regularly during spring and early summer, whether from rain or from your hose. Once the tree is established (2 years after planting), a weekly soaking should be plenty during the growing season, whether from rain or from your hose. You probably will not need to water in winter unless there is a prolonged drought.
Feeding Your Mango
Your Mango will benefit form a regular fertilizer schedule, but it does not need to be fed in great amounts. In fact, over-fertilization is worse than under-fertilization! Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, liquid seaweed or compost are often recommended, as the tree is subject to fertilizer burn, especially when young. Micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese and chelated Iron are important for a healthy Mango, so if your soil is sandy or lacking in these, you may use a foliar spray to supply these nutrients.
Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!
Your tree has already had a couple of prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!
Most trees and plants on the website are pictured in their mature form. Depending on the product and growth rate, mature development can take years for your plant to resemble the photos. Picture the last time you took a walk in the woods. The young trees were not miniature bonsai versions of mature trees. Instead they were naturally thin and lanky. Young trees are programmed to race toward the light, before the competing vegetation crowds them out. Once established at 10 feet or more, they start developing a wide canopy and shedding lower limbs.
Pruning makes plants appear to be less-full than the ones you may have seen at your local big box garden center.
A retailer's goal is to have plants look their best while sitting in the store.
Our goal is to have them look the best after you plant them.
Pruned trees and shrubs not only travel better, but become established much quicker. So rather than supporting extra foliage, they put their energy into sending out deep roots. Once that happens, your plants become hardier and quickly explode with new top growth. Above the ground, pruning helps your plants develop a more attractive form.