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Emperor Japanese Maple for Sale 
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Emperor Japanese Maple in Fall Emperor Japanese Maple in Fall

*images shown are of mature plants

Emperor Japanese Maple

Reigns Supreme

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Here’s why it rules the yard:

  • Brilliant crimson, red color
  • Strong, hardy variety
  • Great street tree or yard specimen
  • Vigorous grower

The Emperor’s New Growth
If you’re seeking a fast-growing Japanese Maple tree with vivid red color, look no further than the Emperor Japanese Maple.  Known for its strength and vigorous growth, the Emperor is one of the hardiest Japanese Maple varieties available. With its mid-sized height ranging between 12-15 feet at maturity, the Emperor’s convenient stature makes it large enough to plant as a street tree or yard specimen, yet compact enough to suit most planting locations. What’s more, its upright growth is easy to maintain.  And if that’s not enough, spring leaves will arrive a few weeks later than most other Japanese Maples. That means spring frost damage won’t be a concern with the Emperor.
When it comes to Holding Color, all others Bow to the Emperor
If you’re a glutton for bright red Japanese Maple color, the Emperor will satisfy beyond your expectations.  Perhaps that’s why many enthusiast refer to it as the “Red Emperor”.  In the spring, leaves will flood your tree with heavy purple hues, followed by incredible crimson reds in the fall.  The foliage’s thin texture allows light to penetrate, giving the rich, red autumn leaves their brilliant color.  The best part is--unlike other varieties--the Emperor maintains its gorgeous color the whole season long.  

Don’t miss out on this show of color.  Order your Emperor Japanese Maple today.

Growing Zones: 5-8

Mature Height: 12-15 ft.
Mature Width: 12-15 ft.
Sunlight: Full - Partial
Soil Conditions: Well Drained
Botanical Name: Acer palmatum 'Emperor'
Does not ship to: AZ
Growing Zones 5-8
This plant is recommended for zones: 5-8
(green area above)

You are in Growing Zone:
X - Clear Zone

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It's Easy to Plant your Emperor Japanese Maple

Step 1 - Dig Your Hole

Select a site with full to partial sun and moist or well drained soil for your Emperor Japanese Maple.

First, dig each hole so that it is just shallower than the root ball and at least twice the width.

Then loosen the soil in the planting hole so the roots can easily break through.

Use your shovel or try dragging the points of a pitch fork along the sides and bottom of the hole.

Step 2 - Place Your Plant

Next, separate the roots of your Emperor Japanese Maple gently with your fingers and position them downward in the hole.

The top of the root flare, where the roots end and the trunk begins, should be about an inch above the surrounding soil.

Then make sure the plant is exactly vertical in the hole.

To make it just right, use a level.

Step 3 - Backfill Your Hole

As you backfill the hole, apply water to remove air pockets.

Remove debris like stones and grass and completely break up any dirt clumps.

Water your Emperor Japanese Maple again after the transplant is complete.

To help retain some of that moisture, it's recommended that you place mulch around each plant to a depth of 2"-3" up to but not touching the trunk. Organic mulches such as wood chips also help to better soil structure as they decompose.

5.0 / 5.0
2 Reviews
Growth Rate
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
Anniversary Tree for our home in the Mountains (45 years)
The tree just arrived and it is just beautiful . I was told it would be here today and it was. My husband was so surprised and delighted. Pam at fast growing kept me on track each day as to where it was. Thank you for your professionalism and reliability. What a wonderful Anniversary Gift for our new home!
Bob and Karen Theobald Tahoma, California
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August 29, 2014
Growth Rate
So far so good!
We ordered our Emperor Japanese Maple this past fall, so I can't really review how the tree is growing since it has only been a few months, and it's winter here in Massachusetts.
But... I can say that ordering this tree through Fast-Growing Trees was simple and quick. We will definitely order more trees/bushes from them if we ever need to purchase more.
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January 9, 2015
10 months ago
Browse 9 questions and 5 answers
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do the roots from this tree grow all over the yard like some maple and how much do it grow each year?
william h on Oct 28, 2014
Just received and planted a Japanese Empress Red Maple. There is a white moldy substance on most of the leaves -- is this normal? Is there anything I should do for it?
Donna U on Oct 14, 2014
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When to Plant?
A shopper on Sep 21, 2014
Best Answer: I planted mine in the spring, but I wouldn't hesitate to plant in the fall either.
Reply · Report · Renee E on Oct 18, 2014
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why the leaves turn brown at the edges and have holes on them?
dean b on Jun 28, 2015
Best Answer: Three are several possible reasons that your leaves are turning brown at the edges: 1) Your tree got desiccated at some point earlier in the season when it got hot and dry. If you don't get an inch of rain a week, you should water your tree, especially if it is a newly-planted young tree. 2) A Japanese Maple planted in heavy clay soil with poor drainage will often react with dying leaves. If this is the case, you can re-plant your tree (if it is still small enough to make this feasible) in a raised bed with plenty of compost or organic material added. Plant the root ball a little high, with about an inch of the soil in the original pot above the soil line in the new location. 3) If your tree has been well-watered and is in a well-drained spot, you could have a fungus called anthracnose, which causes the leaves to turn brown and look scorched. You can use a preventative fungicide labeled for this disease to help avoid a recurrence, but it won't help the leaves already affected. 4) If your tree is newly planted, it could be simple transplant shock. Be sure it has good drainage and gets an inch of water a week, and it should recover. As for the holes, it is hard to say without seeing the leaves. It could be an insect or beetle of some sort, or it could be scorching from water droplets on the leaves when the afternoon sun is blazing. If the holes continue to be a problem, you can consult with your County Extension Agent for the exact causes.
Reply · Report · KarenStaff on Jun 29, 2015
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We moved into a house with a Japanese Maple about 4 foot from our foundation by the kitchen window. I am not sure what variety but it is about 12-15 feet tall with red leaves that turn to green. It is beautiful, but I worry about the roots getting into the foundation since it is so close to the foundation. Should I cut it down?
Dawn A on Jun 17, 2015
Best Answer: Hi Dawn,
Personally, I would not cut it down. At 12-15 feet tall, it's close to full grown already. Plus, a Japanese Maple is a nice medium size tree, unlike, a maple, or oak tree with monster root systems.
Reply · Report · Renee E on Jun 17, 2015
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P recently purchased a Emperor Japanese Maple and the leaves appear to have a white mildew on them. Is this normal? If not, how do I treat it?
Donna U on Oct 18, 2014
Best Answer: Hi Donna,
My Emperor Japanese Maple has not produced this mildew, but I have ivy on the side of my garage (ivy came with house) that started growing powder mildew for the first time. I think it has something to do with moisture. If I were you, I would buy a fungicide. I think a couple of treatments should do the trick. Good luck!
Reply · Report · Renee E on Oct 18, 2014
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I bought a Japanese maple tree and was marked as red japanese maple. WHen I bought the plant, the tree had green leaves. now, some of the leaves have turned to red. Will th whole tree change to red?
Carmel S on Sep 1, 2014
Best Answer: Yes all of the leaves will turn red. Sometimes when the foliage gets too hot on this tree then the leaves can turn green. You should have all red leaves by the early Fall.
Reply · Report · Allison BStaff on Sep 3, 2014
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why do u receive the plant wih the top cut off?
John F on Jun 10, 2015
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When is the best time of year to prune a tree?
Ben W on Mar 14, 2015
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Most items ship the next business day unless otherwise noted.

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Will my Trees Look Like the Photographs?

Most trees and plants on the website are pictured in their mature form. Depending on the product and growth rate, mature development can take years for your plant to resemble the photos.

Picture the last time you took a walk in the woods. The young trees were not miniature bonsai versions of mature trees. Instead they were naturally thin and lanky. Young trees are programmed to race toward the light, before the competing vegetation crowds them out. Once established at 10 feet or more, they start developing a wide canopy and shedding lower limbs.

Most Trees are Pruned Before Shipping... at No Cost to You

Tree before pruning Tree after pruning Rose before pruning Rose after pruning
Maple Tree before pruning Maple Tree after pruning 3 gallon Knockout Rose before pruning 3 gallon Knockout Rose after pruning

Pruning makes plants appear to be less-full than the ones you may have seen at your local big box garden center. A retailer's goal is to have plants look their best while sitting in the store. Our goal is to have them look the best after you plant them.

Pruned trees and shrubs not only travel better, but become established much quicker. So rather than supporting extra foliage, they put their energy into sending out deep roots. Once that happens, your plants become hardier and quickly explode with new top growth. Above the ground, pruning helps your plants develop a more attractive form.

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