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Alphonso Mango

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Growing Zones: 4-8 patio / 9-11 outdoors



Growing Zones 9-11 outdoors
This plant is recommended for zones: 9-11 outdoors
(green area above)

You are in Growing Zone: 6

Mature Height:

10-15 ft.

Mature Width:

10-15 ft.

Sunlight:

Full-Partial

Drought Tolerance:

Moderate

Botanical Name:

Mangifera indica

Does Not Ship To:

AZ

The Most Flavorful Mango

The Alphonso Mango is sought out by renowned chefs all over the world because their incredible flavor is a must have for a variety of recipes including appetizers, main courses and desserts!

This cultivar was specifically bred to be more pest and disease resistant and it lives up to the hype by repelling threats while producing tons of our nation’s most flavorful mangos.

Once you sink your teeth into a creamy Alphonso mango you’ll understand why they’re so popular. They have a sweet flavor with hints of apricot and peach and a rich citrus tang, plus their creamy flesh is filled with tons of tropical juice. 

With this mango variety it will be love at first bite. When the summer harvest comes around in July you’ll find any reason to eat more of your mangos, from snacking on them fresh, adding them to smoothies, and topping your ice cream.

Alphonso Mangos have a unique flavor that’s hard to find and often sell out of grocery stores or are very expensive if they can even be found locally. Luckily you can easily grow an abundance of them in your own home, even up north.

If you live farther north than growing zone 9 place your mango tree in a container and bring it indoors during the winter. It will thrive near a bright sunny window and spread warmth and cheer all winter long. Once it warms up, place it back outside.

Their lush, glossy dark leaves and vibrant yellow fruit that develops a golden hue when ripe bring a tropical look to any space. Place your potted mango trees on your porch or patio or plant them in the garden for a unique jungle feel.

Grow pounds of mangos without the hassle because the Alphonso Mango is incredibly low maintenance. It’s heat resistant, drought tolerant and will even thrive in humidity. 





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Customer Reviews

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Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
Alphonso Mango on the left
Alphonso Mango tree is on the left, which was well packaged for shipping. However, the tree had few leaves and several had brown spots. Let's wait and see if the recent CA hot weather effects Alphonso. Will follow up in a few weeks if/when we get growth.
Alphonso tree is on the left and was well packaged, but the there were few leaves and brown spots.
Alphonso tree is on the left and was well packaged, but the there were few leaves and brown spots.
August 8, 2016
Anaheim, CA
Purchased
4 months ago
Growing Zone:
10
Growth Rate
Slow
Medium
Fast
so far so good
Our plants (alphonso + sugar apple) arrives together and were packaged very well. Alphonso seems to have established itself and is growing new shoots...very happy so far.
August 12, 2016
lathrop, CA
Growing Zone:
9

Planting & Care



It's Easy to Plant & Care for Your Alphonso Mango


Alphonso Mango  Planting Diretions

Easy Care Mango Instructions

Growing Your Mango in a Container:

When You Receive your Mango –

Your Mango will arrive in a 3-gallon pot, ready to be potted up to a larger size for the first growing season. After repotting, you will need to acclimate your plant to being outside all day. Place it in a shady spot with for the first couple of days, then gradually give it more sun each day until after a week, you move it to its permanent spot in full sun for the summer. When picking that permanent spot, keep in mind that they love heat and sun!

Transplanting to a Larger Pot

As your tree grows, it will need to be moved to a large pot every 2 or 3 years, until it maxes out to around a 30-gallon pot. Your tree comes in a 3-gallon/10” pot, and you can step it up gradually as follows:

3 gallon/ 10” pot

7 gallon/ 14” pot

15 gallon/ 17” pot

25 gallon/ 24” pot

Etcetera

Re-potting Your Mango

  1. You will need a good, fast-draining gritty soil mix. You can make your own, using equal parts Pine Bark Fines, Turface and granite grit (or perlite). You can also use a commercially prepared mix like Jungle Growth or Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil. You can add a small amount of slow-release fertilizer to the mix.
  2. Many recommend using a clay pot because it breathes better than plastic, but you may also use a plastic pot, if it has plenty of holes in the bottom for drainage. Use one a size larger than your current pot size, as shown above.
  3. You might want to place the pot on castors before you fill it, to make moving it easier.
  4. Line the bottom with loose stones, and make sure there are several drainage holes. Add potting mix to half-way full, wetting it as you go.
  5. Remove the plant carefully from the pot, keeping the root ball intact. Do not pull it out by the trunk, as this may damage the tap root. If roots are starting to circle around the outside where they met the pot, gently loosen the ends to encourage them to grow out into the new soil.
  6. Hold the plant in the middle of the pot (or get a friend to help!) and fill in around it with potting mix so the top of the soil around the base of the tree is still visible. Burying the tree too deeply can cause the trunk to rot.
  7. Gently firm the soil and water until water drains out the bottom of the pot. I f you wish, you can apply a couple of inches of organic mulch to the top of the soil, though it should be several inches from the trunk, not touching it.
  8. After 6 weeks, begin fertilizing as shown below. You can use a slow release fertilizer (18-6-8 or similar analysis) available at your local garden center, or an organic fertilizer if you prefer.

Watering Your Container

A general rule of thumb is the smaller the pot, the more frequently it will need watering. Also, you will need to take any rainfall into consideration in your watering schedule. That being said, you should water your pot every 2 or 3 days in the summer, and cut back to once every week or two in the winter. The goal is to keep the potting mix moist, but not wet, and to let the top couple of inches dry out before watering again. Your container should have several drainage holes and when you re-pot, you can place pebbles or shards in the bottom of the pot to help give good drainage.

Feeding Your Potted Mango

A plant growing in a container does not have access to nutrients in the ground, so you will need to feed it keep it nourished. There are a lot of differing opinions about the best way to feed your Mango, but it is generally accepted that nitrogen should be given sparingly if at all, as it will impede fruit production in favor of foliage; however, if you need to encourage flowering, you can apply a small dose of a rapid-release fertilizer just before flowering.

For the rest of the year, If you use a commercial fertilizer, use one with low nitrogen, such as a slow release 18-6-8; you can apply it in a slow-release form in spring and midsummer. Many recommend using an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion, and applying a mulch to the soil surface, but not touching the trunk itself.

Feed only when the tree is in active growth, and leave off in the winter. In the summer while the tree is active, you can also apply a foliar spray with micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese; chelated Iron might be needed, also. This may sound like a lot of trouble, but when you are eating those luscious Mangoes, you will be glad you took the time to grow your tree correctly!

Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!

Your tree has already had a several prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!

  1. A major key to pruning a Mango is tip pruning the new shoots when they reach about 20 inches. You should do this several times the first growing season you have it, and 2 to 3 times during the next couple of growing seasons. After that, you will need to tip prune every year after fruiting in midsummer. You don’t have to be selective, but simply cut off the growing tips of all the branches. Branches in the center of the tree that are growing upright should be cut back farther than branches growing horizontally on the sides of the tree. After 4-5 years, the tree should be about 6-8 feet tall and wide in a pot, and the goal is to keep it that way for its lifetime.
  2. When the tree is 5 years old, you should start removing altogether the thick, woody branches growing upright in the middle of the tree; a small hand saw should suffice. Hold the branch upright until the cut is complete so the end is not splintered and torn. Leave the smaller branches in the tree center; the goal is not to make a vase-shaped tree, but to open up the center of the tree to air and sun, as well as to remove thick, woody growth that saps energy from the smaller fruit-producing branches.
  3. Prune annually after harvesting in midsummer.

Bringing Your Mango Indoors for the Winter

Mangoes are not hardy, and can be damaged when temperatures go below 40⁰ Fahrenheit. In fall, when night temperatures get in the 40’s, go ahead and bring in your plant. You need a sunny place to put it – the more light the better – so a south-facing bank of windows would be good, or if you have a heated greenhouse, that would be even better. Cut back watering to once every week or two, and stop fertilizing. Moving your pot is easier if you have a dolly or if your pot sits on a platform with castors. It will make the change easier on your plant if you continue to put it outside in the middle of the day for several days until leaving it permanently inside for the winter, though this may not be practical once your plant gets large.

Pollination on an Indoor Plant

Though your Mango is self-pollinating, pollen is usually transferred by insects of the wind; your Mango will flower in March and April, probably before you can bring it outside. To help make sure there are plenty of fruits, you can try shaking the tree to disperse pollen or use a paint brush to gently transfer pollen from one flower to another.

Growing Your Mango in the Ground

Where to Plant

Mangoes like a lot of sun and a lot of heat, so bear this in mind when selecting a spot. Think what would be the warmest part of your yard during the winter months and that will probably be the best suited location for your Mango tree; this is often on the south or east side of your house.

Mangoes also require good drainage.

You will need at least 8 to 10 feet of space to accommodate your tree’s width. Its roots are not prone to damage pavement or pipes outside its drip line, so you can plant 8 to 10 feet from pavement or a pipeline, or 12 feet from a structure.

Soil

The Mango is not particular as to soil type, providing it has good drainage. If soil is too rich and too well fertilized, the tree will grow quickly, but be reluctant to flower and fruit. It likes loose, sandy soil and performs well in sand, gravel and even oolitic limestone. If you have heavy, wet clay soil, you will need to amend it substantially with substances like decomposed leaves, grit, and fine bark and sand. If you have a high water table, or wet soil, you may want to create a raised bed for your Mango.

Planting

  1. Make your hole 2 to 3 times as wide and twice as deep as the container. Amend your soil if needed. Fill in the bottom of your hole with the removed soil so when you place the container on it, the top of the container is at ground level; planting too deep can rot the trunk, so the top of the soil around the base of the tree in the pot should still be visible after planting in the ground. Do not add fertilizer to your soil.
  2. Remove the plant gently from the container, keeping the root ball intact. You may cut the sides of the nursery pot to make removing the plant easier, if needed. If the roots are starting to grow around the edges of the pot, gently loosen them so they will be more inclined to grow out into the new soil. However, take care not to damage the tap root.
  3. Hold the plant in place and back fill your hole around it. Be sure the top of the soil around the base of the tree is still visible when you’re done. Use any extra soil to make a small 3-4” berm in a circle 2 feet from the tree trunk, which will help hold water near the roots for the first few waterings.
  4. Gently firm the soil and mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic material to buffer soil temperature, conserve moisture and reduce weed competition. Water in your plant.
  5. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the base of the tree to a distance of 3 feet. Leave at least 6 inches from the trunk with no mulch touching the tree. Organic mulch will supply nitrogen as it decomposes, suppresses weeds, retains moisture and helps prevent damage from string trimmers.

Watering

The first 10 days after planting, water every other day, then gradually reduce frequency so that after 6 weeks you are watering twice a week in the summer while the plant is in active growth. Simply fill your ring (see #3 under Planting, above) with water and let it soak in. The ring will disappear by the end of summer. If you have rain, of course, you can reduce your watering. In the winter, your Mango will need very little watering: once every couple of weeks should suffice, unless you have enough rain to fill the tree’s needs.

The Mango needs consistently moist (but not wet) soil if it is to produce high-quality fruit, so it should receive water regularly during spring and early summer, whether from rain or from your hose. Once the tree is established (2 years after planting), a weekly soaking should be plenty during the growing season, whether from rain or from your hose. You probably will not need to water in winter unless there is a prolonged drought.

Feeding Your Mango

Your Mango will benefit form a regular fertilizer schedule, but it does not need to be fed in great amounts. In fact, over-fertilization is worse than under-fertilization! Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, liquid seaweed or compost are often recommended, as the tree is subject to fertilizer burn, especially when young. Micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese and chelated Iron are important for a healthy Mango, so if your soil is sandy or lacking in these, you may use a foliar spray to supply these nutrients.

  1. 6 weeks after planting you may apply fertilizer, either an organic one or a low dose of a slow release, low analysis fertilizer that contains low levels of nutrients, though some recommend staying away from chemical fertilizers until a couple of years after the tree is planted out. Apply at the drip line and irrigate immediately.
  2. In subsequent years, apply either an organic fertilizer or a slow-release, low level formula chemical fertilizer (such as 6-6-6 or 8-3-9-2, with the 2 indicating magnesium) in spring just before flowering and in summer after harvest. Apply at the drip line and irrigate immediately. Additionally, apply a foliar spray of micro-nutrients that include magnesium, zinc and manganese as well as chelated iron in early summer and again in late summer.
  3. Do not fertilize after during the fall and winter.

Pruning is Important – and It’s Not Hard!

Your tree has already had a couple of prunings to get it started right, including tip pruning the terminal bud to encourage lateral growth. However, it will need regular pruning its whole life to keep it a manageable size and to promote fruiting. This is not a difficult or exacting process, so don’t panic!

  1.  A major key to pruning a Mango is tip pruning the new shoots when they reach about 20 inches. You should do this every year after fruiting in midsummer, and more often for the first couple of years. You don’t have to be selective, but simply cut off the growing tips of all the branches. Branches in the center of the tree that are growing upright should be cut back farther than branches growing horizontally on the sides of the tree. After 4-5 years, the tree should be about 10 feet tall and wide in the ground, and the goal is to keep it that way for its lifetime.
  2. When the tree is 5 years old, you should start removing altogether the thick, woody branches growing upright in the middle of the tree; a small hand saw should suffice. Hold the branch upright until the cut is complete so the end is not splintered and torn. Leave the smaller branches in the tree center; the goal is not to make a vase-shaped tree, but to open up the center of the tree to air and sun, as well as to remove thick, woody growth that saps energy from the smaller fruit-producing branches.
  3. After the first year or two, prune annually after harvesting in midsummer.

Questions & Answers

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Browse 4 questions Browse 4 questions and 11 answers
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I like mangos
Mohan G on Aug 21, 2016
Love mangoes hope they are delicious!!!
Sparkle R on Aug 2, 2016
I like mangos
Mohan G on Aug 21, 2016
my wife likes these very much
Stanley M on Aug 8, 2016
Love mangoes hope they are delicious!!!
Sparkle R on Aug 2, 2016
I love more mangos
Jamal A on Jul 29, 2016
I heard from friends that it grows fast and bears fruits in a year although they advised to remove those fruits in the next two years to allow the tree to develop good and strong trunk and branches as well as roots.
Clemente E on Jul 26, 2016
I love, love mangos! :)
Nicholas U on Jul 23, 2016
I chose this type of mango because it is smaller and more compact than others.
Mishell W on Jul 21, 2016
I chose this tree since it reminds me of my country. I grew up with a mango tree in our backyard. Not the same type however it's close enough.
Charmagne P on Jul 7, 2016
my wife likes these very much
Stanley M on Aug 8, 2016
I love more mangos
Jamal A on Jul 29, 2016
Does it need another mango tree to cross pollinate?
rachel.d1 on May 19, 2016
BEST ANSWER: They are self-fertile.
Will this tree give fruit the first year?
Kim S on Jun 27, 2016
BEST ANSWER: It can take 3-4 years to produce fruit.
Will it bear fruit even if potted?
Venkat P on Jul 14, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Yes it will produce fruit planted in a pot.

Shipping Details

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Due to cold weather, we have suspended shipping to the areas that are shaded on the map below. Please view the diagram to determine if your area has been affected. This includes anyone in Growing Zones 2, 3 4, 5 or 6. If you are unsure of your growing zone, visit our Growing Zone Finder.

We will resume normal shipping in the Spring. Please see the table below for your approximate ship date.


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